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Decantified: Oregon Wines

By Jim Ginley

 
Saturday, April 24, 2010 - During Prohibition many of the vineyards established in Oregon were abandoned. In the 1960s, finally Oregon was given a second chance and the winegrowers did not miss the opportunity.
 
With California supplying 90% of all U.S. wine production, Oregon and Washington come in second and third, followed by New York state.
 
The wines of Oregon have increased the level of quality and raised the standard for wines from the Pacific Northwest. Although today there are many producers, they have always strived to make quality wines, even in the budget category.
 
Until recently, the wine business in Oregon was mainly family-run operations that picked their own fruit from small plots ranging in size up to 20 acres. They followed the traditions and practices of the Burgundy region of France by adapting to variations from one vintage to the next.
 
Today, higher levels of complexity and concentration are the result of improved viniculture practices, selection of grapes, lower yields, and older vines. By not joining those who favor hot climates and reliably ripe New World wines, Oregon has set itself apart from the commercial producers.
 
The cooler climate was favorable to the Riesling and Pinot Noir, and they were among the most successful grapes planted there. Another success was the Pinot Gris (PEE-noh GREE). It’s the same grape we all know as Pinot Grigio. (In French, Gris means ”gray” the sometimes grayish hue of the grape). It is the No. 1 white grape in Oregon, followed by the Riesling, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer.
 
What the NapaValley is to California, the WillametteValley is to Oregon: the AVA covers 75% of Oregon’s wineries. And what the Cabernet Sauvignon grape is to Napa, the Pinot Noir is to WillametteValley: it rules.
 
While not reaching to the heights of a Burgundy Pinot, in my opinion nothing compares to French wine. The best of Oregon Pinot Noirs are demonstrably better than any produced anywhere, except France.
 
One rule there is that a varietal wine must contain 90% of the named grape, as compared with most U.S. states, which require 75%. While never a threat to California, Oregon does have its followers and most of those follow Pinot Noir. The climate is cooler than California, which the finicky Pinot grape likes. If you're into Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, or Reisling, come by Green’s and I’ll show you our selection.
 
 

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