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California wine industry grows in 1970s By Jim Ginley
Saturday, March 6, 2010 – Overcoming a lush reputation was a major hurdle to spur California wine sales in the 1960s and 70s.
 With wine production reaching new heights in the 1950s and 60s, some years produced a surplus. But the surplus was mainly from the overproduction of raisin and table grapes, which were used to make low-priced brandy and dessert wines. The most popular raisin variety was the Thompson Seedless, which was widely planted in the San Joaquin Valley. It was versatile because it could be sold three different ways: in July, it was sold as a table grape, in August, it was picked and laid out in trays between vine rows and dried out for raisins, and if market prices were not good, the grapes were left on the vine until fall and sold to wineries.
Until the mid-60s, almost half of the vineyard acreage in California was planted with Thompson Seedless due to its many income-producing possibilities. In contrast, European grapes were good for only one thing: making wine.
Another reason for the wine surplus was because leaders of the raisin and table grape industry seldom drank wine themselves. They, like many others, still regarded wine consumption as the beverage of choice for those who frequented Skid Row.
Despite the overwhelming popularity of Thompson Seedless grapes, the movement to make better wines from European grapes continued to grow. California’s coastal counties could not supply the demand for the varietal table wines, so areas like the San Joaquin Valley shifted from planting table grapes, raisins, peaches and oranges to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Barbera.
Due to the efforts of Dr. Harold Olmo of the University of California at Davis, new hybrids were developed for red grapes bred for hot climates. A bonus was they could yield up to 11 tons per acre, which is nearly double the production from cooler climates.
 Another important step originating from UC Davis was the concept of training vines to grow on trellises, instead of straight up from the ground. It allowed the leaves of the vines to provide shade for the grapes from the hot scorching sun. Grapes matured slower, and increased sugar content without lowering acidity, creating a better flavor. And automatic sprinklers were being developed about this time, which helped support irrigation and control the climate in the vineyard.
When the state legislature changed a certain tax law in 1970, it allowed wines stored in wooden casks and maturing wines in bottles to be taxed only once, in the month of March after the harvest. Previously, the wine could be taxed every year. Now the vintner could let his wines age as long as he deemed necessary, without the added tax burden. This allowed California wines to age properly and compete directly with the best wines from Europe, which benefited from years lain down in oak and rewarded the consumer with unbelievable aromas and tasting delights.
Due to consolidation and venture capitalists, the wine landscape in California was changing quickly. Heublein, a Connecticut company, which had introduced vodka to consumers 20 years earlier, took control of United Vintners in 1969, along with Beaulieu Vineyards, a top Napa producer. The result was in 1970 two companies controlled 60% of the California market: Heublein and the Gallo Winery.
Foreign competition came into play as Nestle, the giant chocolate concern from Switzerland, bought out Beringer Brothers of St. Helena.
Other factors in spurring the industry included: New operations created from old, abandoned wineries; and the mechanical harvester made 1972 a banner year for plantings because 37,000 acres of new vines, mostly the European varieties, were planted.
And very soon, the whole world would discover how good California wine could be, thanks to a fellow in Paris named Steven Spurrier.
Jim Ginley is a 30-year veteran of the local hospitality industry and serves as the wine consultant at Green's Discount Beverages in Myrtle Beach. He can be contacted at
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